Right tool for the job..
Started taking the head off the 606 this evening (off for a porting and valve job) .. got to the timing guide pins and didn't have a puller with suitable (6mm) adapter.. No problem, I'll just use a 6mm HT bolt and washers to pull it out.
Turns out that HT bolt was not so HT ..
2 hrs, lots of heat and swearing later.. Bolt drilled (the only all carbide bits I have include a 5.5 - phew!), re-tapped for 6mm
Tomorrow I'll make slide hammer.
A right tools for the job lesson (again!)
hi ben ,so you are going for some light porting and valve polish /lap in -very nice
i should be able to hear your tyres shredding from here! that is going to fly ,your pump is modded by myna or dieselmeken? and what spec is it 7.5mm or 6mm and maxxed?
regards your puller try and use cap heads as they are 12.6 not 8.8 tensility (i am sure you already know this),they can be difficult to find i will give you a selection when you come up . nice work this engine will howl,do you need my pump timing kit or do you want part numbers /the basket (i made my own with a better solution) /locking tool for bosch pump .
Presume you are going to go with an EGT (Exhaust Gas Temperature Gauge) to tell you what is happening if you want those sort of HP. I was looking at a nice combined one with boost in a 2.25" housing from US light aircraft company.
..and talking of exhausts.. my 160hp 2 litre VAG diesel has a 63mm exhaust as stock. The 88hp 617 300D is 50mm stock. I have a 220hp petrol with same 63mm/2.5" which goes well .. but an upgrade to 3"/75mm was on the books. If you want 400hp I would be doing at least 75mm and maybe more.
Quick Google gives this http://www.mk5cortinaestate.co.uk/calculator5.php which puts 400hp at 79mm, 75mm at 350hp, 63mm at 250hp, 50mm at 160hp .. which sound right ball park for me... less back pressure on a turbo will free things up and reduce your EGT's which is really what you fight on a diesel so go big.
I did have some nice software which was really for petrols that allowed you to play with CR, valve lift, duration, timing, boost etc.. which allowed you to go down the root of custom camshafts but then you start playing with accelerations of valves verus spring loads.. and breaking them, lightening them etc.. better IMHO to free flow stock camshaft/valves with a little gas flowing and then turn up boost, with as big an intercooler as you can.. plus a turbo that is not too far out of it's comfort zone and pour the fuel in. Running turbos out of their comfort zone will quickly spike EGT. Running big turbos will cause lag and no bottom end. Nice compromise is variable vane turbo (can be pain to control I believe as the vanes operate back to front so you cannot just connect it to boost) .. or 2 turbos. Anyway sounds fun.
I'd be interested to know more about that housing.
really I'm shooting for 350hp, which I've had more than one person say 2.5" is OK, but about the limit. I hadn't got to a point about making a decision really but I take your advice onboard. 3" would be the choice I think.
VVT is hugely complex AFAICS - the controller would have to run off the tac I would guess (manual gearbox going in), but too much for me to take on right now.. this is the first TB I have done any work on.. quite enough to learn already!
Company called compressor racing make a version of the HX35 optimised for quick spin up and should get to 350 OK, so that's what I'm going to buy I think.
Other thought was an Eaton M90 or 112 inline a-la VW twincharge. few people (blacksmoke racing guys) have done this to the 606, but I have heard mixed reports... I think in the end Occam's razor will apply!
Superchargers create a fair bit of heat .. a nicely done turbo is far more elegant and needs less sticking plasters to work.
Not sure what your criteria is.. mine used to be 100hp @ 3,000 rpm on a 7,500 rpm petrol so that it was not all top end power. Diesels you roughly rev out to 4,500 rpm .. so about 2,100 rpm for the start of the torque kicking in and spooling up turbo would be a guess but note that offroad you will not get access to that torque (well most of the time).. so should be satisfied with the existing torque from 800-1400 rpm; that is what cc is for in the first place .. otherwise if you want bottom end torque then twincharging etc.and complexity goes up near twice.
Thinking on it.. if stock diesel 2 litre 160hp needs 63mm then need a few steps up from that.. 75mm sounds barely right for 350hp in a diesel.. the other figures are for petrol and I am wondering if diesel needs a bit more flow as the power density is less and you might have to pump more air to get the same power.. Lambda is roughly same for petrol and diesels (14.7:1) but it seems diesels tolerate far wider air/fuel ratios (2-40) whereas petrols run narrower (7-16?). Max power is at Lambda in both but suspect diesel flush more air to cool the engine as they can tolerate it .. hence run higher flow for the same HP by a bit.. say 20% WAG.
EGT/Boost gauge combined;
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/categories/avionics_instruments/av/menus/i...
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/westach10-01268.php
..not shown there but you get an idea of prices etc
You can find here under Gauges/diesel/dual but not much in way of prices etc.
http://westach.com/
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Yes, I was recommended Higflow heads for this http://www.hiflowheads.co.uk/
They will do a porting job, clean everything up/ replace seals/ ream plugs etc.
I'm trying to get more data on what else I should be thinking about on the head - cam profiles is one thing, valve springs another but this is all new stuff to me so although I understand the principle of why for example a snappier valve and higher lift is better, I have no practical experience of what would be worth doing and what is not.
As you get more into it, what you do get to understand though is that magic bullets single solutions are not as good as a range of mods that work well together (hence not just doing pump elements, but doing head too).
Myna have suggested 2 'sensible' options, both with 7mm plungers and a HX35:
1. 7mm elements and older model camshaft.
'Quite smooth engine sound, not much sharper than stock with warm engine'.
'Max sensible hp ~420hp (Probably more can be taken, but the injection time becomes quite long => burning not very efficient anymore)'
2. 7mm elements and newer model camshaft.
'Engine sound sharper than stock especially with cold engine, but still ok. Max hp ~520hp'
He goes on "I think we can get low smoke engine with 7mm plungers and hx35 but 400 hp is quite lot with that turbo. 350 hp is maybe max that the hx35 gives."
Re. Pulley - yes it was a stupid mistake as I have lots of different length M6 cap heads in the basement.. I went for the hex (or rather torx) head because I had it right there to hand :/
I actually just bought the basket and pump lock tool in the end. They aren't super expensive and I figured it was worth owning them.
What I don't have is the chain splitter and riveter tool. They are expensive from MB (around £250 complete I think) and AFAIK are unique to this series of engine (or at least MB) as none of main tool mfrs seem to do an equivalent.